Contenido: Settling in and making contacts. Arrival ... and an invitation. The neighbourhood: a 'world of blossom and willow'. The hospital ... and a strange encounter. The school ... and a fight. A pilgrims' trail. Shiroyama, the Satomi legend and a new look at power. Events to attend. Wrapping the body: two local festivals. The housewives' 'Club for Life'. Cubs, sports and a shock. Suicide, funerals and the well-wrapped gift. Paper walls and flowers at the bank. The role of experts. A foreigner at the 'Culture Festival'. 'Your Japanese is psychological torture'. A volcanic eruption. Tennis and the 'surreal' dinner. Concerts, cakes and spiritual communication. Building a framework for analysis. New Year: shrine, mochi and a tea ceremony. Valentine's Day, and the 6th years pick on Hamish. The gang-leader's wife. Unwrapping the argument. An artistic farewell.